By Jim Gorman
National Geographic ADVENTURE Magazine
The Vitals
Tips for riding the GAP-C&O Towpath
Cycling: Riders should plan to cover 45 miles a day. Free campsites, each fitted with water and toilet facilities, are situated roughly every five miles along the C&O. Campgrounds are less frequent on the GAP. Mountainside Bike Tours runs fully supported rides on the GAP-C&O ($850; www.mountainsidebiketours.net).
Lodges: The Jacob Rohrbach Inn ($129; www.jacob-rohrbach.hypermart.net) in Sharpsburg is within walking distance of Antietam. In Cumberland, the Inn at Walnut Bottom ($112; www.iwbinfo.com) is biker friendly. The River's Edge Café and B&B ($75; 814-395-5059) overlooks the Youghiogheny River in Confluence.
Getting Back: Amtrak runs trains between Pittsburgh and Washington ($42; www.amtrak.com). Freedom Trail Riders arranges shuttles along the length of the GAP-C&O ($190 from Pittsburgh to D.C.; $60 for each additional person; www.freedomtrailriders.com).
Best spots along the trail
Best Day Trip: The Class V Upper Youghiogheny River in Ohiopyle State Park is one of the East Coast's best whitewater runs.
Best Eats: The lauded River's Edge Café and B&B in Confluence draws crowds from as far away as Pittsburgh.
Best Climb: Big Savage Mountain near Cumberland doles it out with 24 relentless miles to the top of the Eastern Continental Divide.
Best Bike Shop: C&O Bicycle (www.candobicycle.com) in Hancock offers a full-service shop along with overnight bunks.
Best Quiet Moment: At Antietam, near Sharpsburg, you can pay homage to one of the Civil War's most infamous battles.
Gearing Down
The essentials for mounting your own multiday bike trip
What to ride: If you plan to be out for several days, consider a cross-country-style bike, such as the new Gary Fisher Montare ($1,150; www.fisherbikes.com) or the Specialized Tricross Sport ($1,100; www.specialized.com) equipped with wide, nubby tires. Either will handle the mud and bumps on the C&O but also roll nicely on the packed, crushed limestone surface of the GAP. Whatever bike you ride, make sure it has suspension in the front fork or seat post to ease constant jarring, fenders to keep mud splattering to a minimum and bar ends to offer multiple hand positions.
What to carry: Stash all your gear in water-resistant rear panniers, such as the Arkel T-42 ($189 per pair; www.arkel-od.com), or tow a one-wheeled Bob Yak trailer ($299; www.bobtrailers.com). Flat tires are a fact of life on the trail, so don't leave home without a patch kit and pump.
What to wear: Autumn conditions can range from sunny and 80 degrees to rainy and 45 degrees. Protect your hands with waterproof and insulated gloves, like the Pearl Izumi AmFib ($65; www.pearlizumi.com). Give your feet the same attention with the Cannondale L.E. Max booties ($60; www.cannondale.com). Shed water and mud with the Cannondale Morphis shell ($100) and Cannondale Kold Fusion pants ($170). Two pairs of high-quality bike shorts are key: one to wear while the other dries after a quick wash in the hotel sink. We like the Pearl Izumi Vertex Microsensor shorts ($120) and the Cannondale Fourteen40 Carbon shorts ($120).
Going the Distance
Five Long-haul mountain bike trails that pair backcountry blitzes with front-country comforts
OC&E Woods Line State Trail Oregon, 99 miles
Millions of board feet of lumber were hauled out of the Sprague River Watershed to clear this abandoned railway. Now adventure-seeking bikers can ride from Klamath Falls into Fremont and Winema National Forests to admire ponderosa-covered mountains, rolling ranchland and distant views of Mount Shasta. The trail--and the countryside--becomes progressively wilder as you leave Klamath Falls behind, culminating at the 400-foot-long Merritt Creek Trestle. www.oregon.gov/oprd
John Wayne Pioneer Trail Washington, 109 miles
Let's clear a few things up: The Duke never wore bike shorts and the early pioneers entered Washington from the south. Nevertheless, this whimsically named rail-trail between Seattle's eastern suburbs and the Columbia River delivers Panavision-worthy scenery, with dramatic trestles and the two-mile-long Snoqualmie Tunnel easing the route through the Cascades. The trail surface is packed gravel, and hiker-biker campsites and several state parks along the way make it simple to plot a trip. Plans are afoot to link with other bike trails to create a continuous off-road route to Spokane and beyond. www.parks.wa.gov
Cowboy Trail Nebraska, 195 miles
Flyover country never looked so good. The Cowboy Trail traces an old railroad route through prairie, marshland and lush river valleys. Construction this summer extended the path from Norfolk on the Elkhorn River to Valentine on the edge of the Sandhills, where prairie grass covers 30-story-high sand dunes. Small towns along the way offer food, lodging and camping. When completed, the 321-mile route will be one of the longest continuous rail-trails in the nation. www.ngpc.state.ne.us
George S. Mickelson Trail South Dakota, 109 miles
Think of this as the pannier-toters' version of the rough-and-tumble Maah Daah Hey Trail. Spanning more than a hundred bridges and charging through four tunnels, the Mickelson Trail traverses the Black Hills, mostly in national forest. Scenery is diverse, with excellent mountain views, and riding north to south minimizes elevation gain. Towns along the route offer B&Bs and hotels; private and public campgrounds also line the trail. www.mickelsontrailcoalition.com
Kettle Valley Rail Trail British Columbia, 283 miles
A rail-trail system as big and wild as British Columbia itself, the Kettle Valley Rail Trail surmounts three mountain ranges and tails surging rivers into remote areas populated by brown and black bears, moose and mountain sheep. Scenery shifts from cool montane forests to orchards to one of Canada's few pocket deserts. Count on a gentle grade but highly variable trail conditions, including deep sand and knee-high stream crossings. Begin the planning process with Cycling the Kettle Valley Railway (Heritage House, $22), which details routes, campsites and highlights. www.spiritof2010trail.ca
