By Michael Browne
Dirt Rag magazine
DR: What should I look for in a cyclocross bike?
PW: Most cross bikes out there today are solid performers. They all have the same basic features: cantilever brakes, a neutral cross geometry and lightweight construction. I'd look for two other important things: Extra fat tire and mud clearance at the fork and behind the bottom bracket--you must be able to fit both fat cross tires and heaps of thick mud through the frame.
Second, look for a tall head tube that creates a big front triangle. You'll be carrying this bike on your shoulder and you need to make sure the frame is big enough to stuff your arm and shoulder through.
DR: What kind of tires should I choose?
PW: The tire question again. Tubulars or clinchers, fat or skinny, aggressive tread or slick? Every cross rider has an opinion. As a matter of fact, debating cross tires is a full-time job for some gearheads. Personally, I think the most important tire consideration is size. I like fatties--at least 34mm wide--and run 'em as soft as you dare.
Tread pattern isn't as important as size and air pressure. A medium depth tread will work in all conditions and won't collect heavy mud or be squirrelly on pavement like an aggressive tread can. Forget tubulars unless you like the idea of wrestling glue-covered tires late into the night.
DR: Do any particular brakes work better than others?
PW: Most cross bikes utilize cantilever brakes because they offer good stopping power and generous mud clearance. Linear pull brakes can clog with mud--I don't recommend them. However, road brake levers won't work well with mountain bike cantilevers--they don't pull enough cable.
The solution is cross-specific cantilevers which are designed to pair with road 'levers. Avid makes a simple and cheap set. SRP, Paul and others make featherweight versions. You may have heard crusty crossers talk about "Mafac" brakes. These old school Euro cross brakes are in high demand among cross retro-grouches. If you ever see a pair at a yard sale, grab 'em.
DR: How should I dress when it's 30 degrees F and muddy?
PW: Resistance is futile--you can try to stay warm but you will fail. Delay the pain by concentrating on your feet and hands. Sidi or Northwave winter shoes will save your toes. Gore-Tex socks are a cheaper solution. Don't try to wear your shoe covers--they'll be destroyed in ten minutes. For my hands, I swear by Burton's Moto-Pipe snowboarding gloves. Yoko cross-country skiing gloves are a cult favorite. Castelli makes some nice Gore-Tex gloves.
On your upper body, a polypro turtleneck under a longsleeve jersey should suffice. Your legs will be the wettest. Hardcore riders don't wear tights because they get soaked anyway. Instead they lather their legs with Vaseline and heat ointment. Don't wear leg warmers--they'll end up around your ankles.
DR: Food. What do you eat before and during a race?
PW: A cyclocross race is so short that you won't need to eat during a race. Most riders don't even bring water--they simply grab a quick drink in the feed zone. Eat a normal breakfast at least three hours before the start. I eat something simple like a Clif Bar or banana one hour before. An espresso or Red Bull 20 minutes before the gun will help put a spark in your legs.
DR: Will being a good crosser translate to better mountain biking skills? If so, what skills should I expect to improve?
PW: Racing cross will improve your sprinting and high-end speed--rapid acceleration and flat out hammering are cross mainstays. Your bike handling will improve as you become comfortable riding skinny tires on slippery mud and loose corners. Your dismounting, running and remounting skills will help in any mountain bike race where those situations arise.
